Wow…..this week in Andalucía and Seville in particular has been simply incredible.  Seville is stunning in its own right, a sizzling sun drenched, blossom soaked city with flamboyant architecture, gorgeous gardens, and a very definite feeling of ‘joie de vivre’.  The centre of town houses the colossal gothic cathedral which like many in this region started life as a mosque until being taken over by the Christian’s during the 12^th century, and being continually altered and extended through  the gothic, renaissance and baroque periods.  The result is a captivating glimpse of church life (and wealth) through the ages.   Along with the impressive collection of precious sacred treasures and the many gilded chapels dedicated to saints, the cathedral houses a whole 120g of Christopher Columbus in an elaborate tomb (though I have to admit I’m not sure why!).  We were dwarfed and daunted in this mammoth space.

In comparison to the almost overwhelming grandeur of the cathedral, Alcázar was a haven of peace and tranquillity.  Originally a Moorish Muslim fortress dating from 913AD, Alcázar has been used as a royal residence through the years by many monarchs, each extending and adding their mark to create a vast palace with incredible Moorish arches and patios, fabulous gardens and a wealth of fountains.  Will was not feeling 100% as we wandered the palace (think the 30 degree heat had something to do with it) but even he couldn’t help but enjoy the serenity.

But even with these gems, Semana Santa in Seville was something else again.  The ‘Passion’ and the atmosphere of the event were evident as soon as we entered the city.  The first sighting of someone in full dress including the pointed mask made us look twice, but the numbers grew and grew.  We stopped to watch the start of the first procession of the day.  For each brotherhood, there were literally thousands of members, accompanied by supporters, all dressed in their robes and pointed hats, carrying candles, staffs or crosses (if carrying a cross, their points were down) and marching to the beat of drums.  Each procession had two parts – the first half carried blood red candles, to proceed the platform carrying the depiction of the crucifixion, and the second half carrying white candles to proceed the Virgin Mary.

These platforms were extraordinary.  Dating from before the 16^th century the platforms were huge, ornate flower and candle laden religious scenes which filled the narrow lanes and required precision drilled manoeuvres to navigate corners and alleys, to the obvious admiration of the crowds.  They required 32 strong men (often firemen and servicemen) to carry them and frequent changes of bearers along the route.

The processions started in the afternoon and on Maundy Thursday / Good Friday continued through the night with the darkness bringing a new spectacle as hundreds of thousands of candles (on floats and in hands) were lit and carried through the streets.   Whilst obviously a cherished city tradition, it was interesting to note the difference in mood as Holy Week progressed and on Good Friday many of the women were wearing the black mantilla – worn in Seville only during Holy Week, or if in audience with the Pope (we didn’t notice him around though….).

It was an extraordinary week to be here and we were all completely immersed in the gravity and importance of Easter to Christians around the world. We have to admit, we have also added Seville to our list of ‘must return’ destinations, if only to see this passionate city channel its energy into a feisty flamenco.  Three inspired travellers are now on our way to Cordoba.