The Spanish spice of life just exudes from Barcelona – what a fun city to spend a few days in!  Even with Gaudi’s remarkable architecture aside, the bustling city boulevards are lined with beautiful balconied  buildings and a walk up La Rambla with its myriad of street artists and vendors is a joy.  Add to this the beguiling Barri Gòtic (the Gothic quarter) that draws you through tight alleys and into hidden sun-drenched plazas and the lively modern waterfront – it all adds up to a fabulous city.

We decided to be proper tourists and get Barcelona Cards for a couple of days which gave us free transportation around the city, and encouraged us to go to some of the less famous monuments and museums.  We headed down to the waterfront first and rode the tiny lift (four people just fit in if you all stood very straight and still) up the Miridor de Colom – an ornate 60m tall tribute to Columbus (who everyone wants a bit of it seems) built in 1888, which afforded us a good view of the lower city and the waterfront.  Following a picnic on the jetty, shared with some enormous spotted seagulls, we took a free boat trip around the harbour, planning our world cruise before putting down a deposit on a super yacht and then returning to reality with an ice cream back on shore (far more suited to our budget!).

A couple of hours was spent wandering up La Rambla and through Barri Gotic and La Ribera delving into weird wee shops and admiring the former traders houses before we headed across to the Museum of Contemporary Art where we all got confused and amused by the various interpretations of the world around us.  As in every city, the ‘yoof’ of today make use of public spaces for skateboarding, scootering and bmx’ing – here it was outside the Art Museum and teamed with students from the neighbouring university, made for some interesting people watching before boarding the bus back to our beach side campsite (these beachside pitches are becoming a habit).

Day two was set aside for the big hitter of La Sagrada Família – Antoni Gaudi’s absolutely astounding cathedral.  Still under construction after more than 100 years, and due for completion in 2026, this homage to God and nature is simply stunning.  Towering arches of curved stone columns emulate trees and exquisite detailing in the stone decoration, with Gaudi’s extraordinary creativity and imagination in evidence throughout! Equally impressive were the contemporary stained glass windows which are still being crafted and which purposely throw the light around the cathedral in varying colours. Although much loved and admired in Barcelona, Gaudi died alone in a Pauper’s hospital in 1926 after not being recognised when he was struck by a tram.    Of course this isn’t Gaudi’s only work and we wandered down to see La Pedrera (sadly hidden from view while under restoration) and Casa Batlló which showcases his totally off the wall approach to architecture with undulating roof-structures covered in azure blue and green tiles and with curved balconies surrounded by multi-coloured mosaics.  Quite a sight to behold.  One very clever man!

The day continued with a wander through Place de la Seu with the Cathedral and Roman Walls, and then ended with a visit to the Museu de Picasso.  We were all looking forward to this, all being big fans of square blue ladies with three eyes.  We waited in the queue in the narrow winding street enjoying the lively buskers who were definitely eating steak that night and after being told off for taking a photo of William (obviously he is subject to copyright), entered the maze of five medieval houses that hold much of the masters early work.  We were stunned by just how good Picasso was at a very young age – at 15 he was trained in the classical style and they are brilliant paintings in their own right!  We all would have liked to have seen a little more of his later work and think we have seen better examples of his famous work elsewhere, so left feeling ever so slightly disappointed (and exhausted by being tourists).  Home for the usual board games and an early night before we hit the road to head toward Roses and Cadaqués – our final ports of call in Spain.

Driving north from Barcelona we had thoughts of popping into Girona for an hour or two but it was the weekend, and we did something that always raises our blood pressure – drove right into town trying to find a car park big enough to take the van – and failing, instead driving in circles discussing divorce.  Girona will have to wait.  We drove on to Figueres…and Mr Salvador Dali….

If the Museu de Picasso left us slightly wanting, the Teatre-Museu Dali delivered in bucketloads!  Before his death, the man himself curated this incredible permanent exhibition in the old civic theatre, filling large and small spaces with his wacky and wonderful artwork.  The whole building has been turned into a showpiece, the stage entirely filled by a canvas, side rooms housing early, intimate and sometimes outrageous pieces, from early pencil sketches to his own bedroom furniture, mannequin legs with a chair for a body, wonderful trickery and 3D illusions, mechanical displays – you name it – it was here.  We spent a couple of hours discovering, bemusing, laughing and in awe of Dali’s imagination before heading slightly unexpectedly to part two of the exhibit.

We entered through a vault like revolving door into a dark corridor, not quite sure what to expect but – oh my word – Dali’s work with precious materials is INCREDIBLE!  The narrative noted that he felt that artists shouldn’t be restricted by the value of materials and this certainly proved that – large but intricate diamond encrusted golden spiders sat beside mechanically operated scenes of the sea made entirely from precious gems and always the gold, religious and royal symbols were given a surreal precious twist with incredible results, and of course, Dali’s clocks were there in diamond 3D.  And this display went on for about four full rooms of jewels – bliss.  Photos were not allowed (or maybe the camera strap was caught on my dropped jaw) – but wouldn’t have done them justice anyway.  Go, See, Believe – but do it soon as I am now planning how to break into this vault!!!

Inspired as we were, we headed out to Cadaqués – where Dali had a home, and where much of his inspiration is said to have come from.  What a coastline….the Gulf of Roses is a large attractive sandy inlet where we spent a pleasant hour promenading before hitting the dramatic coastline.  We were quite taken by the rocky inlets and clear water, stopping briefly to clamber over some rocks looking for smugglers caves, before winding our way over the hills to Cadaqués, where we had lunch on the beach before walking to Dali’s house.  Without tickets we could only admire from the outside, but we knew that before we arrived and so were quite content with the walk taking in a tiny local church with impressive iron crucifixes, and the lovely coastline.  The essential ice cream walked us back to the village and our van.

We carried on up the coast line, winding our way through wind-blown sea side towns, our van clinging to the narrow coast roads like a limpet (or was that me to the door?).  Crossing from Spain into France, we had to stop and have a high five moment.  A momentous month in Spain, with so many memories – hard to believe it was only one country and only one month!  Adiós and Gracias Espana.