We are not quite sure how it happened, but we managed to spend almost all our two weeks in the Czech Republic in the company of Dutch folk. We had a workaway arranged on a Dutch run campsite in South Bohemia (where we had decided to focus all our visit), but we hadn’t appreciated that there are over 30 Dutch campsites in the country and we inadvertently chose Dutch sites throughout to stay in.
Heading out of Austria, we crossed the border near Lake Lipno and were immediately surrounded by vast green forests and sparkling lakes. We stayed the first night in Frymburg, a pretty lakeside village popular with holiday makers. A run/ride through the village and around the waters-edge was a great way to start the day. Will tried out his new padded cycling shorts to alleviate ‘stoney bottom syndrome’ and they did indeed give him stamina and speed to keep pace with Deane all the way back!
The next couple of nights were spent near Český Krumlov – a gorgeous UNESCO protected 17th century town set in a steep river valley, with a brilliant jumble of rooftops, tight staircases and alleys and dominated by the Renaissance castle which perches on a rock high above the town. It is a joy to wander through the cobbled streets and along the river, and the castle tower provides a fabulous vista of the town and surrounds. Climbing all the steps required energy so we fuelled up with Trdelník – dough wrapped around an iron tube, baked over a fire and then dipped in spiced sugar – before jumping back on the local bus to our campsite in the village of Chvalšiny.
With some trepidation we set off the next day for our first workaway – at Camping Kostelec, slightly further north near České Budějovice. On route, our lunch stop was the village of Holašovice – a single street lined with Southern Bohemian rural Baroque style houses. The village has an interesting history being twice abandoned, once when the entire town (save 2 hardy folk) were wiped out by the bubonic plague, and again after the second world war when the German settlers were displaced. Today it is UNESCO protected, beautifully restored and a lovely spot for our usual salad roll lunch.
Arriving at Camping Kostelec, we were greeted by Henk, who along with his wife Janny left the Netherlands 10 years ago to develop this idyllic campsite in rural Bohemia. We had agreed to stay with them for about a week as workawayers – a web-based initiative that matches volunteers with hosts – you work about 4-5 hours a day for the host, and they provide food and board.
After settling ourselves in to the camp, we joined Henk and Janny and were assigned a role commensurate with our skills – loo cleaning! This was to be a regular (relentless) task for the week, but along with this we cleaned the pool and recreation areas, raked and tossed grass, baked bread at the crack of dawn for a large group of campers (giving Janny a well deserved sleep in), planted flower boxes, weeded and looked after the campsite while Henk and Janny took a bit of time out to go to town.
In return we were fed like kings – with delicious breakfasts of eggs and bacon each morning courtesy of Henk, and scrumptious hearty lunches thanks to Janny’s wonderful cooking. This working for your board is supposed to be a win-win situation, but I think we got the better deal with this scrummy food! It will take us a while to work off the extra inches!
It wasn’t all work…..along with some good laughs, Henk took us tractor riding on his vintage home made tractor, William fed the rabbits and went on an adventure to collect two piglets for the campsite who he named Ham and Bacon, and made a little fan from the village (Zdena) who became his shadow for the week. A day off saw us on our bikes to a local automotive / historical artifacts museum where some absolute treasures were housed. The curator was a funny old chap who was determined that we needed to follow a specific route through the museum, and who accompanied us, prattling on in German. Deane’s schoolboy German (which has come in handy) couldn’t keep up, and eventually the man gave up and simply turned and walked away in disgust without another word. It was 33° and there was a huge hill on the 5km ride home which tested little legs, but we all made it back to cool off in the shade of a tree with a cold beer / juice.
It was a fantastic insight into the workings of a campsite, and it was three weary workawayers that bid a very fond farewell to Henk and Janny – who we wish all the best for the summer season and who we look forward to seeing again one day in the future!
After the usual supermarket stock up in České Budějovice (which is the home of Budvar so you can guess what dominated our trolley), we headed east, leaving Bohemia and entering the region of Moravia and the town of Telč. Yet another UNESCO protected town, Telč is a perfect example of scripted town planning, with a square full of perfectly matching Renaissance Burghar’s houses which were built after the town was destroyed by fire in the 16th century. Though no doubt dreadful at the time, the aesthetic result of the rebuild is simply stunning! A few pleasant hours (and ice creams) were enjoyed before the heavens opened briefly and we hot footed it back to the van. We spent our final nights in the Czech Republic in a small (Dutch) campsite by a lake in a village called Opotov before saying Na shledanou / Dag to the Czech Republic.
The Winding Road 